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Intriguing and stunning Sri Lanka

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The flight from London to Sri Lanka may be 11 hours, but as Ross Biddiscombe says it’s well worth it when you get there



I have played in a few decent-sized amateur golf tournaments before; 60 or so players struggling around 18 holes for a little trophy and a few minor prizes presented at a carvery supper. But I have never travelled thousands of miles to a foreign country to contest a major amateur event involving almost 200 men and women with massive business class airline tickets as first prizes and a celebration dinner with cabaret that would not look out of place on TV. Such was the Sri Lanka Golf Classic 2007.

Why Sri Lanka? Well, why not is the obvious answer. If you haven’t worked out yet that the Near and Far East are among golf’s boom areas then you have your head stuck in a bunker. The European Tour has been expanding madly for more than a decade and this season it stopped off in India for the first time; Sri Lanka could well be next.

The Sri Lanka Golf Classic is the idea of Sri Lankan Airlines who have a sound history in golfing tournaments; this was the 12th year of this particular golf event and the airline staged another three during 2007. The event attracts people from across the globe, but mostly from the home country plus its near neighbours in South East Asia and the Middle East. However, groups from further afield – especially Europe – are becoming more prevalent, especially as Sri Lankan Airlines flies to 28 different countries and does a pretty good job of telling its frequent flyers (among others) that golf in this beautiful island is a splendid option.

But it’s a heck of a long way from Europe to play golf for a couple of days, surely? That might be your view as you sit reading this article, but if you took a moment to figure out the benefits, then you might be signing up for the event yourself.

The thing to remember is that Sri Lanka is one of the world’s most intriguing islands; its people are charming and warm; its landscape is often stunning and its history is compelling. Now that there are some great golf courses opening their arms in a welcoming manner, then this is a country to be taken seriously as a new golfing destination.

The flight from London is direct and takes around 11 hours into Colombo, the capital, and from there we took a mini bus inland to the picturesque Victoria Golf & Country Club Resort near Kandy, the second city. The drive through the urban streets of Sri Lanka is similar to those in most major cities in the region – masses of cars, mad drivers and a strange mixture of roadside prettiness and poverty. But in the countryside, then it takes your breath away. Plus, Victoria Golf Club is all pretty and no poverty.

This is a delicious golf course set in the jungle area and is surrounded by the huge man-made Victoria Reservoir. The views are spectacular, both the distant tree canopy and also the course itself which winds up and down the peninsula and along the waterside. The fourth tee is probably the most obvious photo opportunity waiting to happen with the reservoir in full view.

In terms of holes to remember, the sixth with a massively elevated tee is a feature and the par-5 15th at 532yds from the men’s tees - plus a second shot over water – is a hell of a test.

Mainly the course is defended by the speed of the greens and the heat. The rough and the palm trees are relatively easy to navigate, but the grainy greens can give you trouble if you are unused to them; sometimes with the grain they are super quick while uphill and against feels like you almost need to hit driver.

As for the heat, well it was 40° centigrade in the full sun at one stage, so even drinking what seems like half a reservoir cannot prepare a pale-skinned northern European for such conditions. This may be a competition simply to enjoy rather than expect to win. Having said that, playing two rounds on consecutive days on this course was an absolute pleasure as was the jacket-and-tie prize giving dinner that was a magnificent spread in a hotel in the city. No prizes for me, but plenty of glorious memories.

And the memories of Sri Lanka golf continued on two more courses, firstly at the Nuwara Eliya GC in tea plantation country.  The town of Nuwara Eliya is 6,000ft above sea level with a totally different atmosphere and temperature to the other two places I visited. This is where flavours of the old British colonialism still exist in the architecture, hotel furnishings and the names of places (the Edinburgh tea plantation, anyone?).

The 117-year-old golf club is, not surprisingly, also straight out of your colonial imagination: the clubhouse has marvellous, large replica paintings from golf in a bygone age within oakpanelled rooms and there is the most beguiling veranda with its wooden chairs and tall jugs of chilled lemonade.

Despite the course being mostly right next to the town, there Is still a feeling of blessed isolation on most of the holes. The first hole is a particular delight – a 460-yard par-4 between an avenue of ramrod-straight trees; then there is the 225-yard par-3 where a 3-wood is not a bad choice of club. But the outstanding part of the course is a section on the back 9 known as Little Switzerland where the Alpine-style elevated tees and semi-blind tee shots will get your attention.

By contrast, Royal Colombo GC is a flat, parkland track although it also has an urban taste especially as a train track runs through part of the course (it’s a peculiar delight rather than an annoying hindrance). Of the three main courses in Sri Lanka, Royal Colombo is the least demanding but no less enjoyable and do not take it for granted; there is plenty of water to cross and narrow fairways to hit. It is also very well presented even to the extent of specially-planted flowers and shrubs around the tees. If you can find the green in regulation on the 423-yard par-4 first across a lake then your scorecard will probably look rosy and your memory of the course enriched.

So, golf in Sri Lanka? Who would have thought it, but it only really remains for you to find an excuse to go there. The Sri Lanka Classic could be waiting for you

fact file

GOLF

VICTORIA:
18 holes; par 73; 6,845yds from the back tees with other tees at 6,537yds, 6,251yds, 5,601yds and 5,397yds. Green fees range from $35 and the clubhouse contains a full service restaurant. Full details on
www.srilankagolf.com

NUWARA ELIYA
18 holes; par 70; 6,100yds from the men’s tees. Green fees are from $20-$25. Full details on www.negolf.lk

ROYAL COLOMBO:
18 holes; par 71; 6,560yds from the back tees or 6,303yds from the men’s tees. Green fees are $22. Full details on
www.royalcolombogolf.lk

ACCOMMODATION
In Kandy, we stayed at the Earls Regency in the city centre; in Nuwara Eliya, it was the St Andrews Hotel; and in Colombo, the Hilton. The three
were booked by Connaissance de Ceylan www.connaissanceceylan.com, a company specialising in travel to Sri Lanka.

G&T tips

The Sri Lanka Golf Classic takes place in October, but if you want to mix the trip with other aspects of sport in this country, then do not forget
to check the international cricket calendar. I was lucky enough to see England play a one-day match in Colombo against Sri Lanka and it was a
fabulous add-on experience.

Wildlife in Sri Lanka is in abundance, but if you want to get up close and personal with some of it then I would suggest the Elephant Orphanage
at Pinnawala which is a two and a half hour drive from Colombo or one hour from Kandy. Standing in a river bathing one of these large beasts
is not to be missed.

Caddies are available in all the top golf clubs and they will range from shy young men or women part-timers, who will be pleasant company
but give you little help, to the older, more savvy full-timers who feed an entire family on their tips and can throw in a golf lesson given the chance!

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